Wednesday, January 8, 2014
Stand out from the crowd by revamping a high street jacket with new lapels and cuffs. By Suzanne Rowland
You will need
Jacket with lapels
1m floral cotton fabric
1m calico or similar (optional)
Sewing machine (optional)
1. To make the lapel pattern lay the jacket on top of a piece of pattern paper lying on a flat surface. A corkboard is useful if you have one. Pin the lapel to the paper. Using a tracing wheel trace the shape of the lapel through to the paper. Unpin the jacket. Draw around the shape with a pencil and add 2.5cm seam allowance. It’s better to have a generous seam allowance that can be trimmed away afterwards.
2. Make the top collar pattern in the same way.
3. Test your top collar and
lapel patterns by cutting in calico first and pinning over
the current collar.
4. When you are happy with the shape cut in your chosen fabric. The top collar pattern should be pinned on the bias of the fabric to help it sit properly when sewn to the jacket. The lapels can be cut on the straight grain.
5. To attach the top collar fold it in half and mark the centre back with a pin. Fold the jacket collar in half and mark the centre back. Centre the new collar over the existing collar. Snip along the lower curved edge at 2cm intervals and turn under to neaten, pin in place.
6. Fold the collar into its usual position and using long stitches, tack by oversewing along the fold.
7. On the underside of the collar fold the seam allowance under and pin in place.
8. At the side front of the collar leave the raw edges exposed. The lapel will be folded over this edge.
9. Using a small needle and single thread, slipstitch the top collar to the jacket by sewing along the edges.
10. Next add the lapels. Centre one floral lapel over the existing lapel. Fold into its usual position and use a few pins to hold the floral lapel in place. Using long stitches, tack by oversewing along the fold.
11. Pin along the outside edge of the lapel, and then along the inside. Open out flat and turn the raw edges in to neaten. Slip stitch around the edge.
12. To make a pattern for the new cuffs, turn the jacket inside out and lay the sleeve onto your pattern paper. Pin the jacket to the paper and trace around the outside with a pencil. The depth of the new cuff is 20cm and widths will vary.
13. Depending on the shape of your sleeve, you might have one straight edge and one angled edge. The straight edge can be placed against the fold of the fabric so you only need one seam. Add 1.5cm seam allowance. You might want to test your pattern by cutting out a cuff in calico first.
14. Before sewing, press the top and bottom of the cuff under by 1cm. Open flat and with right sides facing machine or hand sew the seam closed. Press the seam open. Press the top and bottom again to make sure the seam allowance is neatly folded under.
15. Turn the cuff the right way round and slip over the jacket. Make sure the cuff seam sits over the sleeve seam. Pin in place with the edge of the cuff measuring the same distance from the edge of the sleeve all the way round.
16. Slip-stitch the edge of the cuff to the jacket. Slide the cuff down so that it falls 1cm over your stitched line. This will hide your stitching and stop the new cuff from pulling. Pin the cuff in place and slip stitch the top edge to the jacket lining making sure not to pick up any of the jacket.
17. Turn the sleeves the right way round and fold back.
Floral fabric: www.croftmill.co.uk